This can damage the fan shroud and the fan. If there is not enough clearance, you run the risk of the fan contacting the shroud with natural engine movement and body flex that affects the radiator and fan shroud mounting. If there is too much space here, the fan won’t be as efficient as it could be in pulling air through the radiator. The other very important fan to fan shroud measurement is the distance around the circumference of the fan and the circular opening of the shroud. This causes dissimilar resistance along the length of the fan blades, which stresses them. It’s also important that the fan blades do not extend past the top, bottom or sides of radiator surface. Make sure you use Flex-a-lite spacers using any other brand with a Flex-a-lite belt-driven fan will void the warranty. You can use 1 or more spacers – up to 3 inches in total. We manufacture a variety of fan spacers to move the fan forward and rearward, letting you achieve the optimal position. If the blades are not far enough inside the shroud, the fan will pull air from around the shroud rather than through it. Instead it will create turbulence inside the shroud, spinning the air, but not efficiently pulling it through. If the fan is too far inside of the shroud, it won’t pull as much air through the shroud as it could. Looking from the side of the engine, the fan blades should be half in and half out of the shroud. If you have a fan shroud, the position of the fan blades in the shroud is very important to maximize airflow. Most people that have cooling problems with a belt-driven fan at idle and slow speeds don’t have a shroud – their fan is drawing very little airflow through the radiator, and most of their cooling comes from ram air being driven through the radiator at speeds above 40 mph. Without a shroud, air will take the path of least resistance, pulling air from over and under the radiator instead of through it. If you rely on a belt-driven fan for engine cooling, a fan shroud is a must to pull the air through the radiator. The first thing we want to make sure is that you actually have a fan shroud. It’s critical that the fan be positioned properly within the fan shroud and that there is just enough clearance around the fan blades. There's quite a few universal ones out there formed out of aluminum, would just have to search for one that'd fit with little or no modification.If you’re running a belt-driven fan, there are a few things you need to do in order to maximize the engine cooling that the fan can provide. It's up to you, personally if your current shroud didn't fit I'd either look into fabbing a new one or buy a different one. Once you're at higher speeds the shroud isn't needed as the air gets pushed through the radiator by the air's resistance to moving with the vehicle.
I have friends that swear that a shroud is not needed, yet both have had overheating issues with aluminum radiators and mechanical fans (a 2F and a SBC) at low speeds at one point or another. Safety, as fj hunter has experienced mangled hands are no fun. Well, listing out for removal here's what I got:Īdvantages: Save weight? Maybe? Like a few pounds? I mean, that counts for something right?ĭisadvantages: Fan is less effective as there is no ducting, this in turn reduces the effective cooling surface area of the radiator as well as you have no means of forcing air through all of radiator. ok, enough.Ģ) for that one time when you get into water and the fan splash needs to be limited to the area of the front of the engine cabin.ģ) for the correct and needed cooling of your engine on a dry and hot and hot day when you need to arrive back as base camp and that fan cooling your engine needs every bit of the directed cooling that the fan shroud employs to do the job to get you there safely and in good heath. then the waiting to know if they will even work again as before, and the praying to God that they will so I can put the lockers in myself. for three reasons.ġ) for that one time when your fingers just don't go where you want them to go and then they fly away and you have to run all over the shop dripping your precious life blood looking for them so they can be sewn back on in an 8 hour operation, costing several 10's of thousands of dollars, which your insurance will only cover 80 to 90%, leaving you with a $2794.66 bill to pay in stead of buying lockers for the rear and front, but i'm over it now.
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